Engine and Spark Plugs Inspection

I heard a lot about oil consumption lately.
Anyway I wanted to endoscope cylinders long time ago but today I got good reason, recently I passed 30K mark. And it's always good to have reference.

I wouldn't recommend to bother checking spark plugs just for fun.

One common symptom that engine burn oil (normally it shouldn't, really, zero topping) is dirty blacky tail pipe. This is mine after 30K km.

It was funny, I got napkin in my hand and tried to swap something from there but it was clear, I checked again... I was very surprised :-)
Rust is the only thing that can be there if your engine not burning oil and fuel is good.

This is how can look engine with oil leak into the combustion chamber - black pipe inside, probably throwing some bluesh smoke at start. Depends...

VW Golf  GTI

So... I was exited to look into mine engine.

First, you need tools:
1. 10mm hex for coil bolt.

2. 16mm hex with extender for spark plugs and torque meter (adapter like mine or wrehcn). Ratchet was missing (actually broken in my set), so I bought Kasco on the way to my work.

3. Other tools that was used are: magnet stick to get plugs out and in, brush for cleaning around.

Remove all coils, unplug connectors, remove bolts and pull gently coils up.

Important to keep area clean from any dust. You don't want particles to get into the chamber or between plug spacer and engine body. I used... plastic straw from IKEA :-) for blowing dust from there. Works perfect, don't forget to close plug hole with something when blowing out dust!

Coils made by Denso part number is 30520-R1A-A01, cost around $50 each on eBay.

Now, the plugs. First is form 1st cylinder, last from 4th.

Now more close. From 1st to 4th.

Awesome condition! Fuel is cool, no oil detected.

Few words about torque specs of plugs.
NGK site says for thread size 12mm it should be 15-19 Nm.

When I unscrewed plugs, unscrewing torque was (measured by adapter):
1st - 29.0 Nm (~21.5 lbf-ft)
2nd - 19.2 Nm (~14.5 lbf-ft)
3rd - 32.1 Nm (~24 lbf-ft)
4th - 19.6 Nm (~14.5 lbf-ft)

Why they are differ? If you read this blog from the very first post, you can remember I checked few plugs already at Dec 2nd 2013. And master who did this tighten it back by hand. How people do that? Right, 3/4 turns after it make contact with the case. That's wrong! :-) You should always follow torque specs if possible, over spec and below spec can lead to bad plug job or even broken threads.

I tighten plugs with following specs: 20.5, 20.5, 20.1 and 20.7 Nm.

Bottom line. Engine feeling well.
Almost forgot... endoscoping video :-)

Bonus video (in Russian only, sorry)

30,352 km | 1Y 10M

Spark plugs

Checked spark plug in 1st cylinder - flying colors!

Marked as NGK IR DILZKR7B11GS (NGK 95710)
D - 12mm thread size, hexagon size 18.0mm
I - Irridium electrode
L - Compact type (shorty)
Z - Inductive resistor type
K - Metal Shell Size: 12 ø x 19 mm, 16.0 mm Hex.
R - Resistor type
7 - Heating rate 7 (2 is hot > 13 is cold)
B - Special design feature
11 - Wide gap 1.1mm
G - Unknown feature
S - ???

Torque specs for these  14.6 - 19.7 Nm, I would say ~17 Nm is ok.

Heating rate explained

Owner's manual says 2 models can be used:
NGK and also DENSO DXU22HCR-D11S.

Looks like it is this sweety - tall, slim and thin

Set of 4 plugs cost below $40 on Internet. At Honda... no idea yet :-)

Honda part number is 12290-R41-L01 but it refers to DILZKR7A11GS, probably previous revision.

If I remember right, manual says replace each 90 or 105 Kkm. But I think that's a good idea. Dying plugs can destroy coils. I plan to replace (if car still be with me :-) at 60.

7,850 km | 0Y 5M