Monday, November 9, 2015

Honda 1.0L and 1.5L Turbo Engines

Original article is here

Brief summary of new turbo engines that will be on next Civics starting from 2017 model year.

Powertrain lineup slide

1.0 Litre

- 3 cylinders
- 127 hp / 95 kW @ ~6,000 rpm
- 200 Nm
- 0-100 km/h 9.5 sec
- compreassion ratio 10.0:1
- dual vtc + vtec
- turbocharger with electric waste gate valve

1.5 litre

- 201 hp / 150 kW @ 5,500 rpm
- 260 Nm @ 1,600-5,000 rpm
- compression ration 10.6:1
- dual vtc + vtec (for Europe and Japan, but not USA)
- turbocharger with electric waste gate valve

37,050 km | 2Y 5M

First ATF change

ATF is Automatic Transmission Fluid.

I decided to change ATF every 30kkm. This time I did it a bit later, but that's not critical.
I bought for this procedure following stuff:

  1. 6 bottles of Honda's ATF. Each for 60 NIS ($16). Why 6? In our Civic partial replacement requires 2.4L. I did 2 changes.
  2. IKEA small tub - 20 NIS ($6)
  3. Special long funnel - 16 NIS ($5)
  4. KASKO adapter 1/2"F xp 0 3/8"M - 20 NIS ($6).
The plug has 3/8" female square hole, that's why mine adapter or 3/8" wrench will do the job.

Here is fun part: until I got correct adapter, I lifted car front wheels on 2 stands 2 times with no luck opening a plug! On 3rd time it finally fit :-) Lifting means preparing all tools around, jacking up one side, then another... The only time-frame I had for this job was late nights when everyone went sleep.

At 1st try I broke cheap adapter. Who knew that it will require 60+ Nm torq?

2nd try I bought Signet 10mm square socket. I was wrong, 10mm is greater than 9.525mm (3/8").
Left to right: correct 3/8" Kasko, wrong Signet 10mm.
Let's continue...

The funnel.

Honda's AFT-DW1.

The procedure of partially "flushing" fluid is simple but you have to be very careful. Why it's partial, because about the half you have in torque converter and without special tools you can't drain it fully.
1. You drain all what drains via a plug.
2. You measure very precisely how much drained.
3. You top exactly same amount of new ATF via dipstick hole (with closed plug of course).
4. Turn on the engine and let it work for a while, select Drive, Reverse, Neutral few times and let it spin wheels (mine was on stands). Check ATF level.
5. Done.
6. (optional) repeat if you have extra ATF for same operation.

Old fluid still has pink color, may be less transparent than new one, without burned smell.
Magnetic plug had small buildup, I think that's normal friction residue.

Unscrew torq spec was 61.6 Nm.
I hadn't new washer, swapped sides. Will replace next time. Outer diameter is 26mm, inner 18mm.

How you should check ATF level?
When you finish reading, tell me how many technicians you know in official Honda garages that check level "after waiting for about 60 seconds" but less than 90 :-D

I leave here the answer from Hiram Gutierrez (you should see him at work on YouTube channel) for my question
"There are talks, that it's cheaper to replace brake pads (and disks) than repair/rebuild transmission. That's true. But, if used properly, does down shifting gears in Honda's torque converter transmittions increases overall wear, friction material or anything else, how safe it is? I call "proper use" ­ do not downgrade if it will spin up revs too high. Example, if I drive in 3rd gear at 55 km/h and down shift to 2nd gear, engine will spin up from 2000 to about 3000 revs. When revs difference is not high (1000­1500) I usually not feel any "kicks" of the car and thus no hard load applied."
he answered
"Just service the unit at least once a year and you'll be okay. Use Honda genuine fluid or Lubegard transmission fluid. The way you're planning to drive the car is okay. Honda transmission fail because of the way it's designed and the filter can't be replaced as a regular service, so by keeping it clean with frequent fluid changes it will last a long time."
I'm not sure I will do that every year, but every 30kkm for sure.

Another bonus

36,800 km | 2Y 5M