Tuesday, October 27, 2015

Strange rattling noise

This sound drives me crazy. I got it for more than 2 month (I think).
It almost every time appears while I'm climbing to roof parking at 20 km/h. Lately I found it even while driving city smooth roads at speed ~30 km/h. 

Today I took sound recorder and attached it under the hood.

You can hear it very clear at:

If you have ideas what it its, let me know.

I thought it can be transmission or steering rail... Now I think it can also be some hose.
At Skoda Fabia I got similar case :-) check it out http://skoda-fabia-israel.blogspot.co.il/2011/11/rattling-noise-is-back.html.

36,500 km | 2Y 4M

Tuesday, October 20, 2015

Automatic Transmission Fluid Change

This is guest post.
I helped my friend to change AT fluid on his Honda Civic Mk8 Sedan. But procedure is the same for mine Mk9 Civic and more important - filter check.

It was Saturday morning when we started on my parking lot.

- Honda Civic Mk8 Sedan
- manufactured in 2006 (I think in Japan)
- odometer 95Kkm
- ATF was never changed
- mostly urban traffic
- no special complains on powertrain
- in current condition it still outperforms new Civic Mk9 Hatch (they bought recently second car to the family, so he can really compare them).

- just little yanking when changing 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears when accelerating
- little yank when dropping foot from gas pedal
- shifting from neutral to drive or reverse has little kick

We lifter his car and drained about 3 liters of durty black ATF (with pulling out dipstick).

Plug has average deposit of friction material, no metal particles.

After that we replaced filter. You will need to remove air filter housing to gain access to it. It was very hard to disconnect the filter from rubber hoses, they probably burned for 9 years to much on them but we did it with small flat screwdriver - pushing it gently into hose.
Positions: filter (#4), hoses (#2), bracket (#5)
For easy of operation remove also filter bracket when you started with it.

Filter part number is 25430-PLR-003 and I got it from Russia for ~$25 (100 NIS).

We had fun (as usual) in Honda garage in Netanya when we went to buy bottles AT Fluid ATF DW1. When we asked about the filter, they said that there is no filter on Hondas but when we showed where it located and how looks the man said 1000 NIS. Wait, what 1000? You don't want to check how much it cost exactly by part number we provided? Because 1000 NIS looks very fucking suspicious and too rounded for your profit :-) He said he hasn't filters in Honda Israel and they never replace them on maintenance. Awesome :-)

So we swapped hoses to new filter. But didn't connected AT fluid out to the filter.
We put there 2 meter long hose for continuous AFT change.

It's important to keep track how much you drained and exactly same amount you need to add via dipstick hole and funnel back to AT unit.
So we added 3 liters of fresh ATF and started engine for a while until we drained again 2 liters of ATF into the bottle. Then we topped again exact amount and repeated until we ran out of fresh ATF. That is the best way to change ATF - you dilute old one with fresh fluid as much as possible because you can't drained out all, a lot of the ATF remains inside torque converter and the only way is to circulate ATF starting the engine.
Left to right: blackest, black, lighter and finally almost purple as clean ATF
8 liters of fresh AFT was added.
Almost, because we have ATF DW1 from Europe in 1L bottles and 2 USA bottles of 1QT (946ML).
Important: it's illegal to throw to trash used ATF or motor oil or any other not environment friendly fluids. But you can drop it almost at any garage, they should accept it with no problem.

Now we installed filter, fitted all hoses and... that's it.
We did few checks that ATF level is okay, put car back on wheels and went for test drive.

Owner was happy :-) No yanking at all, shifting was smooth as new.

Now, I took filter for inspection and yesterday I opened it with my Dremel.
Fluid flow as I understand from right to left (as on below picture).

It has tiny valve.
Note that this brown thing is not sludge, that's the glue that holding filtering paper in place, same on other side.

When I took out the paper, I saw tiny metal grains.
Probably that's okay for 9Y old car with almost 100K mileage... correct me if I'm wrong.

Metal grains are on outer side of the paper. And that's I don't understand. Because if ATF come via valve, it passed from inner paper side to outer. So how metal could be on outer side? Like ATF comes from outer, but it will not pass the valve.... strange. Or maybe valve spring opens (like thermostat) and create the flow?
UPDATE: Ok, got comments from owner. Fluid circulates without the valve, so that's explains metal parts outside. That is bypass valve, it opens when paper is limiting flow and all ATF will go unfiltered. Imagine that these metal grains will circulate in your transmission...

Another note from Civic's owner.
It's better to replace rubber hoses. If you can't find originals, use any suitable that meets SAE J1532 standard. Hose part number is 25211-RPC-003 (Hose ATF 150mm) costs ~$10 each.

Thank you for reading.
If you have comment on filter condition, leave them below. I have no reference how it should be: dirty, metal grains, etc. That would be helpful.

I will replace ATF on my Civic at 45K, now I got only 36K at odometer.

More reading:
Guy with first filter change at 135,000 miles on Accord but every 20,000 miles ATF change. He opened the filter too, but photos too small to tell what's there.

Monday, October 19, 2015

Cylinder Crank Speed case

I was working on friend's Civic while ago.
We cleaned EGR and throttle body. And when I looked over PGM FI params I noticed something...

But first, let me show you a little theory of operation.
On new Civics we have CYL Crank Speed for all cylinders. Cut from HDS help.


This parameter shows engine speed change by combustion pressure torque of No.X cylinder.
This is used for misfire detection.
Calculation method:
  1. FI ECU will calculate average engine speed (i.e.NE in fig.) and engine speed change (i.e. Δω in fig.) from measured crank plus.
    NOTE: Δω (rad/s) = 2 * 3.14 * ΔNE(rpm) / 60
  2. FI ECU will select δω at the crank position when combustion torque will accelerate the rotation. (i.e. Δωn in fig.)
  3. FI ECU will calculate engine speed change about combustion torque from Δωn. This value will be output from FI ECU to HDS.

Fig:Example of engine speed change at 2000rpm

Engine speed will be increased at combustion because combustion torque to accelerate crank rotation will be happened.Then, this parameter will be positive value if there is no issue in the vehicle.
  • Acceleration by combustion toque is weak when this parameter closes to 0.
  • Acceleration by combustion toque is strong when this parameter becomes large. Especially, this parameter will show large value when cranking, idling (i.e. low engine speed and unstable engine state) etc.
On the other hand, when misfire is happened, engine speed of the cylinder is lower than average because of no combustion torque. Then, this parameter will be negative value, and show -8 rad/s or near.

NOTE: minimum value of this parameter is -8 rad/s, so this parameter may continue to show -8 rad/s when misfire is happened.

How to use this parameter:
  1. Please check this value whether positive or negative. If it is negative value, misfire is happened in the cylinder.
  2. Please compare the value with other cylinders. If this value is pretty smaller than other cylinder's one, abnormal combustion is happened in the cylinder. Then, please diagnose possible failures of misfire.
    For example: poor injection flow, poor valve clearance, poor air flow etc
  3. Please compare the value with other cylinders. If this value is pretty larger than other cylinder's one, combustion pressure is shortage.
    For example: compression leak etc

I think that's pretty cool! We can monitor combustion in each cylinders.
Now, look here and tell me if you see something abnormal...
Can you see what I see? :-)

Ok. Check the 2nd cylinder. It contributes less than others, it's purple line below all cyls.
I think that strange. Especially, when I looked into my car.
This is how I expected it to be - all contributes the same force (combustion torq). It looks even like DNA shit. No anomalies. One thing of course is different is that my reading was done with air cond on, so you see how RPM drops on ac clutch engagement and then restores.
I will upload later same readings without AC, but trust me, it will be the same but with lower speed, about 40 rad/s.

So what we did to investigate.
We did nothing that date, we ran out of time. But later we went for valve adjustment to our common mechanic. Before that, he inspected spark plugs - they were fine, no difference between cyls.
Random pic from Internet
When he adjusted the valves, 2nd cylinder indeed was worth. We were happy.
But when we hooked up HDS...
It wasn't DNA like we wanted...
2nd still below, but now 1st goes to top.

Things got worth when we swapped coil and spark plugs with 4th cylinder.
What??? Now 3rd???
This last reading was done on not fully warmed engine (RPM ~760). But that's very strange.

I have few things in mind:
1. I wasn't there while they did valve adjustment, but he is pro and do a lot of Hondas on daily basis.
2. Maybe adjustment wasn't perfect as we see patterns changed.
3. But I can't explain why cyl#3 came with new behaviour after we didn't touched it (swapped 2 and 4).

If you have ideas - shoot.

36,400 km | 2Y 4M

Sunday, October 18, 2015

EGR Valve Diagnostics

To check if EGR is working bad (not how bad it working), you can follow this procedure.

Using HDS, go to PGM FI module and then to Snapshot.
There you should select high speed mode and select following params to record.
- Engine Speed
- ECT Sensor
- Map Sensor
- TP Sensor
- EGR L Command

With the engine completely warmed up, have an assistant drive the vehicle while you operate the
HDS. Drive the vehicle between 65 and 90 km/h on a smooth road. Apply light throttle with the
transmission in 5th gear (between 1,500 and 2,000 rpm). If hesitation is felt, select the Snapshot Manual Trigger button.

After snapshot sample is saved, you can review in garage.
Plot line graph on EGR L Command and EGR LIFT.

And this is a good EGR response.

This is BAD or EGR clogging response.

From: Honda Service Bulletin 05-026.

36,400 km | 2Y 4M

Monday, October 5, 2015

Mobil 1 0W-40

As I got opportunity and access to fresh Mobil 1 oils for 50 NIS ($14) per 1 galon (0.946 L), I decided to try it.

This is first one 0W-40.

35,700 km | 2Y 4M